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2011 Sienna G-Key No tachometer signal

I've installed Evo-one, remote starter RFK442 with Toy9 wiring packets. Connect and flash exactly the same with the Toy9 instruction. After all, I can start with remote starter but the vehicle failed to be ON. And flashing 4* parking light (no tachometer signal). Is there any solution for this problem? Thank you. P/S: my S/N is 002B04 241048


Re-program tach?

I wired up an Evo-all to my '05 Lexus GX470 with a Viper alarm/remote start system. It had been working perfectly find for the past few months until I tried remote starting and the remote FOB ran out of battery right when I pressed the remote start button. Now when I try to remote start, the vehicle will start for 1-2 seconds, shuts off, and attempt to keep restarting over and over again. I spoke with Fortin tech support and they told me to re-program the tach. I asked if it was the same as re-programming it all over again from the start but the tech support just kept repeating "re-program the tach." Based on the install manual I used from your website, the only "programming" I needed to do was the bypass. How do I just program the tach?


FSA-206 no tachometer error

Hello, I recently purchased a used 2012 Honda Pilot, and the keys included 2 FXT5 remotes - that started me on a search for a remote starter, and I have identified what I believe to be an FSA-206 (unfortunately the installation location makes it difficult to confirm). For some reason, the starter has worked twice, but more commonly returns 4 flashes - a no tachometer error. How can I troubleshoot this error?


tach output appears to not function

I have a 2018 Wrangler JK, everything appears to be functioning correctly with the exception of the tach output. Am using the evo with the advanced keys push to start system. I was not able to locate a setting in the flash updater for turning the tach output on or off.


Starter cranking too long

Hello, I have the evo one, t- harness, and viper rf kit installed on my 2016 Honda Accord with a regular key. The remote start all works fine, except the starter over cranks. I had it adjusted to the -3 setting. I have had it installed for some time but haven't really used it until now due to the cold. I don't have the 12 digit number yet as I need to take the dash apart to get the module. Can you advise me what options I have to correct? Could there be a new software update that I could apply? Thanks, Kenny


Can I use Pink Pin-20 Tachometer status on evo-all while using only 1-way D2D

I'm installing a Prostart CT-4211TW with the option set to Fortin D2D 1-way. As I don't have a flashlink updater, can I use Pink Pin-20 Tachometer status on evo-all along while using only 1-way D2D?


Remote start keeps shutting off

I installed a remote start on a 2007 GMC Sierra Classic diesel (2006 electronics). Evo-All with an Avital 4105 remote start. Lock, and unlock work fine 100% of the time. When I set the 4105 to virtual tach, it will remote start and stay running only if the engine was already warm. If it is cold it will start and after 20 seconds shut off and restart itself. I set the unit to tach, and it shuts off immediately. If tach is supported over data, then why does it shut off right away? Also what would cause the remote start to shut off after 20 seconds and keep restarting itself if i don't use the regual tach feature? I have the data on F3: D2D. I have used this unit combination on over 50+ vehicles without an issue, so what is giving me the problem?


Car over cranking

Hi, i installed a crimestopper with a evo all on a 2013 civic, i set tach learning mode on crimestopper but sometimes it over cranks. If i hardwire tach wire from evo to crimestopper will it help with the over cranking? Crimestopper manual says when using a data module for tach signal do not connect tach wire, this will create a conflict. The system can only use one tach source. If i hardwire tach wire evo all to crimestopper it's still the same source right? And should not have any conflict?


Starter Over Cranking Evo-One with harness 2008 Infiniti QX56 with intelli-key

when remote starting the starter is over cranking. It is wired to the can bus and programmed to tachless/data link but it still over cranks.


2011 Nissan Pathfinder - No Start w/o Key - Start then Killed w/ Key in Barrel

Fortin EVO-ONE w/ T-Harness. Regular (non-intel key) Summary: 1) I am trying to determine why I only get cranking & starting when the key is in the barrel 2) I suspect I'm not getting or decoding CAN data in the EVO-ONE. Details: I have installed the unit and, updated both bypass and remote start firmware via flashlink. I've also set the following options in remote start: 32.3, 2.3, 8.2. My first issue appeared when pairing the RF remote kit (RF442W). I had to manually apply +12V to the black (foot pedal brake) wire after 5 button presses in order to enter the "add remote" option. I thought brake status came over CAN bus. After issuing a remote start command, the red light on the Fortin comes on, the dash lights up, and hear relays clicking in the engine bay but no cranking. It fails after two attemps and flashes the 4x light code = no tack feedback. Same result with GWR wire grounded. If I put the key in the ignition barrel and re-attempt the test, this time the vehicle starts, but then shuts down after 3 seconds with the same no tachometer feedback error code. If I change the tachometer setting via flashlink (20.4), the vehicle will stay running. I have tried 20.1, 20.4, 20.5, 20.6 I pulled out my 2CH oscilloscope and probed the CAN pins (6 & 14). There is clearly data on the bus, though the CAN L signal has significantly higher capacitance (signal does not have hard edges like CAN H). According to the install guide, doors/trunk/brake/tach/etc should be coming into the EVO-ONE via CAN bus. I'm worried that I either have a fortin or vehicle CAN bus problem. For what it's worth, I disconnected the CAN bus wires into the EVO-ONE and got the same result. Additionally, I suspect there is another reason as to why I don't get cranking without the key in the barrel. Any additional steps or guidance appreciated.


2012 KIA Optima shuts down after 5 minutes then restarts.

I did an install on a 2012 Kia Optima (standard key) with a Avital and EVO-ALL. It starts fine, but then it runs for 5-6 minutes then shuts off and restarts again. It doesn't do it every time, but when it does, it will do it over and over unless you shut it off with either the remote or the brake. When it shuts down, there are no parking light flashes, it just shuts off and a second later starts up again. The customer did not even notice until he was outside one if the times it restarted. I made sure that avital was set to standard tach and not virtual tach. What could be causing this issue? Is it possible the tach signal is being interrupted? If it is most likely the tach, would switching to virtual tach fix the issue? Customer lives an hour away, so I dont't want to have him keep driving back and forth over and over again trying to diagnose the issue.


EVO-All No Tach Output to Soundstream ARS.2 Remote Starter- Tach Lock Out

Vehicle- 2014 Subaru Impreza Bypass- EVO- All Remote Starter- Soundstream ARS.2 Programming/ Decryptor went ok after updating firmware on bypass and FlashLink. Following install guide, Options C1 and D5 were enabled as well as defaults A1-A11. Options B1 (Convenience) and B2 for the Aftermarket RS Kit All wiring done and verified per Install Guide 35011 Rev.- 21061209 The problem I am having is that the vehicle will key start but not Remote Start. The onboard Diagnostics of the Soundstream states that it is in Tach Lock Out due to not having a Tach signal. Is this a Fortin problem (wiring or programming) or is this a Soundstream problem? UPDATE 1 I realized after submitting this question that I never actually flashed the settings into the EVO-All. After completing this step, I was able to get it to attempt to start but then the 2 way transmitter output the Tach Lock Out error again. I went through the Troubleshooter Guide and saw a bit about Starter 1 & Starter 2 and Ignition 1 & Ignition 2 being required. Here is where I run into another issue. The Remote Starter has Starter 1 and Ignition 1 but has a Selectable Output for either Igniton 2 or Starter 2. It is currently wired up and set as Ignition 2. Could this be my issue? Do I need to rewire and set this output as Starter 2? When attempting to remote start, I do have 12 Volts coming out of the RS Module and going into the Black/ White Starter Activation circuit but it does not crank. UPDATE 2: My issues seems to be coming from a lack of a Tachometer signal. When the RS is programmed in Tachless Mode or Hybrid 2 Mode, it will go through the motions of starting without actually cranking. No faults will output as the Fortin and RS think the vehicle started and is running without problem. Now my question is this- Why does the Installation Guide tell me to hook up the Evo All Tach Output wire to the RS Tach Input wire if no signal is being sent? I am going to W2W the Tach Input wire from the RS to an ignition coil or fuel injector tomorrow. I will make sure to post the results and/ or the fix as soon as I figure out what the problem is. I am only hoping that I can help any customers there were left hanging when requesting Tech Support and not getting a response.