English
Mon compte Créer un compte
English
EVO-START Wirecolor

Votre panier

Votre panier est vide.

Votre panier est vide.

Continuer le magasinage

TOTAL ESTIMÉ :

Commander

RECHERCHE RAPIDE DE VÉHICULE

RECHERCHE VÉHICULE

Questions & Réponses

Consultez les questions les plus fréquemment posées et trouvez des réponses pratiques et pertinentes.

recent questions tagged: ...

Réinitialiser
Réduire tout
Tout développer
Réinitialiser
Réduire tout
Tout développer
picto contact

Vous cherchez nos meilleurs participants ?

Voir les utilisateurs
picto contact

Vous n'avez pas trouvé ce que vous cherchiez ?

Posez-nous une question
LES + RECENTS A VOIR! LES + NOTÉÉS LES + RÉPONDUES LES + VUES

23/10/2022

 Ford Trevor Voitik2 (130Pts.)

0

Ignition turns on but won’t crank

I just my oem remote and the trucks ignition turns on but it won't start the hood pin is disabled as I don't have one on my truck 2009 f150
Connectez-vous pour répondre Voir 1 réponse(s)

22/02/2022

 Ford Clay Smith2 (130Pts.)

0

removed this kit now car wont start with key

ok i am an installer at 12 volt solutions in tulsa oklahoma, and we installed one of your evo all kits in a 2016 ford escape, and couldnt get any power to the module so we removed the kit and plugged it all back up factory and now as soon as you turn the key to accessory it tried to start, and when you try to crank it over it does nothing. All the lights and the radio come on but wont start.
Connectez-vous pour répondre Voir 1 réponse(s)

20/11/2021

 Ford Cory Schwarz2 (200Pts.)

0

2018 Ford Edge will not crank.

Installed Evo-All with Thar-3 into a 2018 Ford Edge push to start, using guide 68921. Module # 001A07 017412, no RF kit installed. Using the OE remote on the lock-unlock-lock, the dash will power up and park lamps will turn on like it wants to start. Unit will not crank, after the second attempt, the lights will flash 3 times indicating. Changed setting D4 to hybrid on/tachless mode, and the vehicle will act like it turns on and park lights will stay illuminated. Still does not crank. Have the black 4 pin, white 20 pin, white 5 pin, red 6 pin connecters all attached. I believe I have all the required wiring connected. Installation shows one end of the black 4 pin going to a remote starter with AVEC Data-Link? Does this need to be connected to something? Tried to tie it into the diag connector temporarily as shown without data-link with no change. Will this Evo-All not act as a remote starter? What am I missing?
Connectez-vous pour répondre Voir 1 réponse(s)

01/01/2020

 Ford Sean Valesquez (130Pts.)

0

After install EVO-ONE car wont crank. I removed everything and it still wont crank

I have a 2013 Ford Fiesta and I installed the evo-one to the t... No crank at all. I tried and tried again still nothing. So I removed everything at tried to start my car with the ignition and it still won't crank. Could I have blown a fuse or relay possibly. Currently my car is dead in the water....
Connectez-vous pour répondre Voir 1 réponse(s)

25/01/2019

 Ford Daniel Waslenko (2650Pts.)

0

2018 F250 flip key remote start not starting if truck sits for a couple days

I used EVO-FORT1 (Evo-all with Ford t harness) 3x lock. I installed on 2018 F350 tow trucks. Most have air brakes. If the truck sits for a couple days and you try to remote start, It says "brake error" on the dash and will not start. If you start it with the key, let it run for a while and then remote start it works fine. let it set a few days "brake error" and no start. Any idea how to fix this? I did a fleet of 15 trucks and 12 have air brakes and all 12 with air brakes are doing this. Customer is not happy. Please help asap.
Connectez-vous pour répondre Voir 1 réponse(s)

08/02/2016

 Ford Rory Donohue (130Pts.)

0

Evo All turns red, then yellow, but doesn't cranks

2010 F150: Unit will flash blue three times with remote (push lock), Red light turns on, then orange light, Orane light goes out, then repeats red on + orange on, then ends with three red flashes.  Seems like its trying to work, but no crank. Accessories turn on, radio, etc.

I had this unit working last night, but in the process of cleaning up wiring (cutting loose wires and taping all connections, the unit stopped working.  I have repreogrammed since as I master reset, C1 and D1 active, a1-a11 on, everything else off - including D2.

I removed all not required wiring and have the following: 

4 pin: 12 Volt and and ground:  Verified 12V w Multi meter

20 Pin:  rx / tx / and yellow ignition.  Verified 12 Volts on ignitiion wire.  Using the FOR1 T harness on this

CAN wiring:  Verified 5 Volts here:    2.35V and 2.5V (Blue lights when using Key Fob)

Ignition plug:  I am tapping into vehicle ignition plug and wiring to top section of FOR1 T harness. I cut off the T harness connectors wire since I have an 2010, but splice into the 12V / Ignition / Starter / accesories of the T harness to use the diodes.  I checked the diodes for increased resistance.  I know the T harness is not technically compatible with 2010 F150, but 3 less splices at top of the ignition barrel and diodes already soldered in. 

My troubleshooting: I ran a separate wire from the yellow/blue start wire and couldn't track a votlage increase when triggering unit remote start (Lock 3 times). I am at a loss and looking for insight on where to look.  I feel like I have checked every connection, but assuming it has to be one of them.  Maybe a damaged plug at the unit...could I have shorted something and smoked the unit in all the testing?

*********** Follow up  ******

I removed all tape I had apllied, took each connection apart and re did. pushed in all connections and the unit started.  Tried taping things back up by the unit and it stopped working.  Found issue in D wiring plug as 12V ignition wire pulled out.  All the testing and pusing and pulling broke the wire.

Respliced a new D port from a different unit I bought.  It works...Yeah.  Tape up top portion of wires, making sure ot test the unit every few areas.  Unit stopped working.  This was the driver of most of my problems prior to the last one.

****** DO NOT ASSUME THE T HARNESS HAS GOOD CONNECTIONS - THEY ARE NOT SOLDERED !!!!

Two connection in the T harness between the ignitiion barrel was bad, specifically the ground was not making connections.  In the process of fixing that, another connection that was barely hanging on slipped out of the connector.  Any bending in this are is libel to pull out a wire.

Re spliced the two connections in the T harness and all seems good.

Final take: be careful on T harness connections.  when you are using a continuity testing, I unplugged the harness to check , which would get the connection back together.  It finally clicked when I actually tried using the key to start at the Alarm light would flash rapidly that it had to be at the ignition barrel.

*******************

Thank you

Connectez-vous pour répondre Voir 1 réponse(s)

22/01/2016

 Ford Chris Dye (330Pts.)

4

2013 Excape, ignition powers up, no crank

2013 Ford Escape. Using the EVO-FORT1 with THarness. Have the flashlink updater. Unit is updated to 71.34. I have the THarness wired to the 4 wires from the 20 pin. The locks work. I did have a hard time getting it programmed to the car. I used the 2 key method. It was always the second key would not register the bypass. But it is programmed now. I hit the 3xlock, the red light turns on solid, then the yellow light comes on solid and the iginition powers up. after about 5-6 secs. both lights go out, and the iginition powers down. Then it retrys. solid red light, then solid yellow light, iginition powers up, after 5-6 sec, the red light flashes 3 times, then everything powers down. The 2 CAN-BUS wires are connected. When it attempts to starts, the are 7.3v at the yellow/black wire that is connected to 20pin yellow wire (A1) and Purple/Yellow (16).
Connectez-vous pour répondre Voir 3 réponse(s)

22/01/2016

 Ford Chris Dye (330Pts.)

4

2013 Excape, ignition powers up, no crank

2013 Ford Escape. Using the EVO-FORT1 with THarness. Have the flashlink updater. Unit is updated to 71.34. I have the THarness wired to the 4 wires from the 20 pin. The locks work. I did have a hard time getting it programmed to the car. I used the 2 key method. It was always the second key would not register the bypass. But it is programmed now. I hit the 3xlock, the red light turns on solid, then the yellow light comes on solid and the iginition powers up. after about 5-6 secs. both lights go out, and the iginition powers down. Then it retrys. solid red light, then solid yellow light, iginition powers up, after 5-6 sec, the red light flashes 3 times, then everything powers down. The 2 CAN-BUS wires are connected. When it attempts to starts, the are 7.3v at the yellow/black wire that is connected to 20pin yellow wire (A1) and Purple/Yellow (16).
Connectez-vous pour répondre Voir 3 réponse(s)

22/01/2016

 Ford Chris Dye (330Pts.)

4

2013 Excape, ignition powers up, no crank

2013 Ford Escape. Using the EVO-FORT1 with THarness. Have the flashlink updater. Unit is updated to 71.34. I have the THarness wired to the 4 wires from the 20 pin. The locks work. I did have a hard time getting it programmed to the car. I used the 2 key method. It was always the second key would not register the bypass. But it is programmed now. I hit the 3xlock, the red light turns on solid, then the yellow light comes on solid and the iginition powers up. after about 5-6 secs. both lights go out, and the iginition powers down. Then it retrys. solid red light, then solid yellow light, iginition powers up, after 5-6 sec, the red light flashes 3 times, then everything powers down. The 2 CAN-BUS wires are connected. When it attempts to starts, the are 7.3v at the yellow/black wire that is connected to 20pin yellow wire (A1) and Purple/Yellow (16).
Connectez-vous pour répondre Voir 3 réponse(s)

Ce site Web utilise des cookies pour vous garantir la meilleure expérience utilisateur. En poursuivant votre navigation sur notre site, vous acceptez notre utilisation des cookies. En savoir plus Continuer