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My installation guide said I need hardware 6 in evo all but I have hardware 7 in evo all

My installation guide said I need hardware 6 in evo all but I have hardware 7 in evo all so can I use that or i need to change it with hardware 6

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Evo-All, smartstart and prostart module install help please!

I recently purchased a smartstart module in hopes to add it to my prostart and EVO-ALL setup I currently have. I don't know what wires go where or if this is even possible as the data link cable seems to feed the prostart module and there is nowhere to plug in my smart start module. Sorry this is confusing I know. The wiring guide describes me plugging in two connectors to the prostart system and one four pin connector into the evoall which I can't seem to see where it goes and what all is involved. Any one help please. If I have it connected to my prostart module do I even need to connect it to. The Fortin bypass module as well?

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how to Add RF kit to EVO-All are already activated or need to re-flash and

I have EVO-ALL working in my Dodge caravan 2016. Now i bought Fortin RF kit RF-641W do i need to reflash my module to add RF kit or its already activated?

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Dcryptor complete but All lights Flash on Evo All during install

Dcryptor was down yesterday. Today I was able to get Dcryptor to complete and update. I also tried unchecking the auto update box and manually selecting update. During install all lights on the Evo All flash and I am unable to remote start.

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Why does One factory key fob work and the other doesnt?

I installed evo all chrt6 and tried programming key fob. The fob I used to program will start the car with 3x but won't work anything while car is running. I used the other fob and everything works fine. Why? The troubleshooting guide says thats the way it is supposed to work. Is there any way to get get the other remote to work? I would have went with something different if I would have known this. We have cars that can pretty much drive themselves but cant get two fobs to work, I dont get it

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Evo all standalone remote starter working fine. What wires need to connected for built in alarm to work?

2012 Dodge charger no factory alarm

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What causes the ignition key to start and kill after few seconds after evo all install?

I just installed evo all in standalone (connection c) it works but now when i try using key to start car it starts then kills after few seconds

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Evo All solid orange LED, either not receiving DataLink info from Crimestopper SP502, or not passing CAN to vehicle

I've just finished the wiring and programming of both my Fortin Evo All and Crimestopper SP502. I have paired remotes and know that the SP502 is responding because the siren is chirping, but it appears it's not talking to the Fortin Evo All, or if it is, the Fortin is not passing that info along to the vehicle. Doors aren't unlocking, remote start isn't working, parking lights aren't flashing, etc. I have tried programming the Evo All to all default settings for the most recent/recommended firmware. I've tried turning ON the Fortin/Evo Data Link option. I've tried messing with the different remote starter options, each time I've reinstalled the Fortin back into the vehicle (2008 Dodge Sprinter) I've followed the installation instructions (hold button, plug data link cable, blue led, ignition, blue led flashes, ignition off). After that, each time, when I turn the ignition on, I'm getting a solid orange LED on the Fortin. I've re-checked all the installation instructions, as well as my wiring, which is solid (soldered and covered with 3M 33+ electrical tape). The data link cable from the Fortin Evo All is hooked to the corresponding port on the SP502 for Fortin/Evo data link. Again, the SP502 alarm seems to be working fine, but either it's not able to communicate with the Fortin, or the Fortin isn't able to pass the info along to the CAN bus. What could be going on? Thanks! ADDITIONAL INFO 9/25/16: I tested the CAN bus on the vehicle to make sure it's operating correctly (or at least the voltages are correct. First of all, the factory key fob still works to lock and unlock the vehicle, which leads me to believe the vehicle CAN bus is fine. The voltages seems to be correct (close enough?) to what is outlined in this article ( http://forums.mercedesclub.org.uk/showthread.php?t=129838 ) for Mercedes 2008 230 CAN voltages, which states No ignition: brown/red should be 25mv (measured 42mv) brown should be 11v (measured 10.8v) Ignition turned ON (engine not running) brown/red should be .65v ((measured .75v) brown should be 4.65v (measured 4.15v) The only voltage difference that seems questionable is brown/red (CAN high) w/o ignition (measure 42mv instead of 25mv). I've verifieid the wiring is correct accorind to the install guide. The wires ARE NOT reversed and the soldered splice is solid!

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