This issue has now been SOLVED! Red pin D2 Yellow/Blue wire stays connected to T Harness (It's the only wire not cut, isolated or manually connected to anything else). D1 & D4 are cut and isolated using the Char5 T-Harness standalone setup. D3,D5.D6 from red 6 pin connector are manually connected to ignition switch. D3 to pin 3, D5 to pin 5, D6 to pin 4 (ignition switch)
What is the setting to open doors once in park so I don't set off the alarm or have to remember to unlock doors manually.
Also parking light connection will have to go, like to just leave lights on automatic and not have to manually turn on headlights once in the car at night.
Now looking at the guide it seems obvious. Hopefully posting this, others will have an easier install process with this amazing product.
Sad note, I noticed my water pump is on it's way out. It's original and has almost 170,000 miles on it. Will replace with Mopar part and new belt....(this is where the son in law comes in really handy). New lights replaced on HVAC console and driver seat switch and she's good.
Feels good to have done this myself. There is still an adjustment or two to get it where I want it to be....that will be tomorrow...
The above link is the tool i used from US Amazon (just linking it, no money is being made by me). It worked better than expected and was $16.99 us dollars.
The only thing that could have been better is clear instructions on how to install hood pin and or the safey switch. I think most people don't bother cause they get an RF Kit and can put the key to on and hit the button on the side of the RF antena remote on your windshield 3 times to engage valet mode and same again to disengage. So I've read, but never tried.
Also if you guys can add not to cut D2 Yellow/Blue wire from harness with an asterix or something would probably help the average consumer (techs know how to read the diagram better).
Also want to say thanks to Derek for personally offering phone technical support once I had a multimeter in my possession. You rock buddy!