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Does a 2006 Lincoln Mark Lt require a key wrap?

+2 votes
I am installing a fortin evo one in a 2006 Lincoln Mark Lt and am having the same problem as described in this question:

https://wirecolor.com/en/qa/65986/evo-one-remote-start-works-dcryptor-bypass-does-not

 

Was this question ever resolved?? I have called tech support and the last very friendly guy i spoke with thought I might have to do a key wrap. I would like to avoid that if there is a better solution. I have done most of the same steps that he has to include swapping the tx and rx wires and even rolled back to .62 and no help. I get the same issue at step 6 of the module program where the yellow light goes out but the red comes back on. I don't have the service number right at hand for the unit but can get it later if its needed to answer my question.
asked May 10, 2016 in Lincoln by Douglas Dingman (150 points)

1 Answer

+2 votes

The service number for your unit is 002b07034526. The DCryptor went through no problem.

 

CAn you check something? on the factory 4-pin transponder connector, there are two other wires. One is ground, and the other is a power source. The question is, that power source, is it a switched ignition signal or constant power? It should be a red/yellow wire like in the pciture below (the one labeled 8)

Just put a meter or test light on it to see if its constant power or switched ignition.

 

answered May 10, 2016 by Robb (255,800 points)

Actually, need to know something else since the unit seems to have programmed.

 

What exactly happens when you try to remote start? Does the vehicle crank and die, or does it not even crank? Does ignition power up?

 

For remote start features, you are using an RF-KIT right? Which model and did it program up correctly?


Lastly, If you put the key in the ignition barrel and try to remote start, does the car start? You may need to temporarily remove the light blue and light blue/black wires currrently connected to Rx and Tx to do this test.

My problem is exactly like the question that I attached the url for. I can put the key in the ignition and the truck starts. Without it the truck turns on the lights and all that but it will not start. I am using an RF kit and it works fine. I can lock and unlock the doors and again if the key is touching the barrel or in the ignition then the truck starts and stays started. Just like in the question I referenced when programming the by pass at step 6 when I turn on the key the light goes yellow as it should. When I turn off the key the yellow light goes out and the red on comes back on. I figure that is where my problem is coming from. Later tonight I will go out and double check that the ignition wire at the barrel is only hot with the ignition on. I hate to do the key wrap because I don't have a second key and the cheapest I could find would cost me $60. I bought this unit because it was supposed to be able to do the trick with one key. Heres to hoping you can help me find a solution. I am going to assume that they other guy never got his resolved?
Disregard my last post if you read it, I must've missed where you mention you only have one key for the vehicle, so 2 key programming is out of the question.

 

You can try doing a master reset, reflash to 0.59, reprogram in car, decrypt and test in vehicle.
Okay, I have confirmed that the wire in question at the green four pin is a switched hot not a constant hot. I have also tried rolling back to .59 as suggested by the other tech and that also did not work. I still get the red light coming back on when i turn the ignition off at step 6. So unless you guys have another idea I guess I need to know how to do the wire wrap for this vehicle. I didn't want to go that route but I also don't want to have wasted over $400 on this either.
Just a question have you tried updating the module to the newest firmware (71.35), re program and DCrypt then see if it remote starts?

Also just as a suggestion try maybe enabling diesle mode in the remote starter? This way it will have a slight delay before starting maybe its a timing issue and doing this would give it the extra few seconds it needs...
Derek, that 71.35 is where I started before I broke down and called tech support. They thought it might be a firmware issue and had me start trying older firmwares. I have not tried the diesel option but due to the fact that the module tries twice to start the vehicle I would think the second start would get it then. At this point I am ready to break down and do the inductive wire wrap just to make the thing work. So if anyone can give me detailed instructions on that it would be great.

17405056593375572811" width="526">This would be how you do a key wrap in the vehicle...put a 1 Amp diode between 86 & 85 with the band facing 86 to prevent feedback to the module.

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