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2013 Excape, ignition powers up, no crank

+4 votes
2013 Ford Escape. Using the EVO-FORT1 with THarness.  Have the flashlink updater.  Unit is updated to 71.34.  I have the THarness wired to the 4 wires from the 20 pin.  The locks work. I did have a hard time getting it programmed to the car. I used the 2 key method.  It was always the second key would not register the bypass.  But it is programmed now.  I hit the 3xlock, the red light turns on solid, then the yellow light comes on solid and the iginition powers up.  after about 5-6 secs. both lights go out, and the iginition powers down.  Then it retrys.  solid red light, then solid yellow light, iginition powers up, after 5-6 sec, the red light flashes 3 times, then everything powers down.

The 2 CAN-BUS wires are connected.  When it attempts to starts, the are 7.3v at the yellow/black wire that is connected to 20pin yellow wire (A1) and Purple/Yellow (16).
asked Jan 22, 2016 in Ford by Chris Dye (330 points)
edited Jan 22, 2016 by Chris Dye

3 Answers

+3 votes
Best answer

Again thank you both for the responses.  I have been busy and unable to work on this.  Last night I did get it working perfectly.  But not exactly as the guide says. 

I did set the options as described. A1-A11 are ON, and D2 and D6 OFF.

During the programing steps of inserting the 1st key, then the 2nd.  I had a very hard time having the yellow light come one during the second key.  If the yellow led did NOT come on, that always ended up with "No key detected" message appearing when attempting to start.  I also never got the RED led to blink 10 times.

Here is what I did, and what happened. (Wiring is only the 2 wires for CANBUS, and the T-harness plugs, including the 3 wires connected to the 4 wires).

I reset the unit. Firmware 34

Connected the flash unit to my laptop, then set the options on the unit.  Set all settings as listed.  EXCEPT, I chose Lock, Unlock, Lock.

In the car.

Held the button as plugging in the black plug.  The BLUE and RED leds were lit, released button.

Connected the remaining plugs

Inserted key 1 (YELLOW led turned ON, The BLUE and RED leds were ON), turned to ON, counted to 3. Removed key (YELLOW led turned OFF, BLUE and RED leds were ON)

Inserted key 2 (NO YELLOW led) (BLUE and RED leds were ON), turned to ON, counted to 3, removed key.

The BLUE and RED leds were ON

Pressed and held the button until ignition came on (The BLUE was ON and RED led was OFF), released button (BLUE led blinked as the ignition came on).

The BLUE and RED leds flashed (couldn't count, about 10)

A pause, about the amount of time it would need to blink 10 times.

Then the BLUE led blinked 10 times.

The ignition turned off, and all leds turned off.

Tested both keys, lock, unlock, lock.  The vehicle starts perfectly. 

So it works, the programming was just a bit off of the guide.  I understand there have been firmware updates, and guide updates as more vehicles are added, and others corrected.  I doubt Fortin has the ability to test the firmware, and revise the guide on every vehicle that unit works with, and every year of that vehicle.  OEM's love making the smallest changes between years.

After all this, I am still picking one up for my F150 (this one was for the wife’s Escape).  Not only that, but after telling a couple of guys at work that I did get the unit programmed correctly and works perfectly.  They are getting one too (both F150 owners). Since I already have a programmer the price of the unit is pretty much unbeatable. The simple install, integration with the T-harness, really only 2 wires to splice in.  It’s the best choice.  The support was a factor too.  Thanks.

answered Feb 2, 2016 by Chris Dye (330 points)
edited Feb 2, 2016 by Chris Dye
0 votes
Start by leaving options A1 to A11 to ON.

When the ignitions comes on does the cluster display a message about invalid key ? I think the programming wasn't done properly and should be done again.
answered Jan 25, 2016 by Chris Dye (85,190 points)
I want to say that A1-A11 are on, but I will pull it and double check.  I did have to attempt programming it a couple of times, because it would not catch the 2nd key (yellow light did not come on when the 2nd key was inserted and turned to on.  I caught that after the first attempt to start and seen the 'no key detected' message.  A couple of attempts later and both keys programmed.  When the ignition powers up there is no missing key message.  It's just as if I put the key in, turned it to on, waited a few seconds then turned it off.   Once I verify A1-A11 I will update this.  Thank you for you help.
Supported RF Kits=OFF (I do not have)

I attempted to reprogram the unit, however I was unable to get it to pair with the 2nd key.  The yellow will turn on for key1, then off when you remove the key.  Then when I insert key2, the red led will flash.  I know I should be expecting a yellow, because if I finish the programming, I just get the no key message.

It is late, I will try this again tomorrow evening.
0 votes

Please turn OFF option D2 and D6

And turn ON options A1 to A11


Thank you,

answered Jan 25, 2016 by JM (61,720 points)
I will also verify that D2 and D6 are off (see above reply regarding A1-A11).  Once I verify that I will reply. Including if I had to reprogram it and the results.  Thank you also for your help


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