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EVO-ONE Remote start works, DCryptor bypass does not.

+2 votes

2004 Lincoln Aviator with PATS

One key only, marked with an S

Programming method 3, EVO-ONE.

I cannot get the immobilizer bypass to allow starting after DCryptor is successfully programmed.

Wiring as follows:

  1. A1 = Lock
  2. A2 = Unlock
  3. (Do these need to be wired to Arm/Disarm?)

 

  1. Reset bypass unit programming. LEDs alternate rapidly.
  2. Unplug unit. Plug in unit (6-pin first)
  3. Hold key against ignition barrel
  4. Trigger remote start (Fortin 2-Way RF antenna)
  5. Start successful
  6. Remote stop. Stop successful.
  7. Repeat 3-6 successfully.

Unplug unit

Bypass Programming:

  1. Plug in unit, holding programming button
  2. Release on Red.
  3. Plug in all connectors
  4. press program button. Red flashes off and back on
  5. insert key, turn to on. Yellow light is comes on. Red light turns off.
  6. Turn key to off. Yellow light is off, red light remains on.
  7. Turn key to on. Wait. Red Yellow alternating flashing.
  8. Turn key off, unplug unit.
  9. take to computer, plug in, launch Fashlink manager 3
  10. Unit red light is on
  11. Vehicle selected is Lincoln Aviator 2004
  12. Open DCryptor
  13. Follow steps until successful message received. Unit red light remains on.
  14. Unplug unit from computer and reinstall in vehicle, 6-pin connector first.
  15. Attempt remote start. Start fails.
    1. Remote Starter engages accessory and then ignition functions.
    2. Faint red flashing on unit
    3. vehicle relays are heard. Normal startup lights are on.
    4. Starter is not engaged
    5. Parking lights flash 4 times. (Note this is not the same as 4x immediate flash, indicating Valet Mode)
  16. Door lock and unlock works fine.

Resetting the bypass allows for the remote start to function again, with the key held to the barrel.

Bypass options enabled:

A1, A2, A3, A4, A5, A6, A7, A8, A9, A10, A11

Additionally, this was tested with D2 both enabled and disabled.

Special Starter options enabled:

31.4, 20.2

Additionally I have:

  • Tried the above methods while holding the unit closer to the ignition barrel
  • Tested for voltage on the TX and RX channels, using both Key and Remote starts, on both the splice and the 20-pin sides, and observed the same voltage patterns.
  • Attempted swapping the TX and RX channels.
  • Tried all steps using firmware 71.31 and 71.28

Please provide any suggestions you may have, thank you for your help.

asked Dec 12, 2015 in Lincoln by Steve Szablya (150 points)

1 Answer

0 votes

Crazy description. 

-- Dcrypor looks fine at the moment, here is the service number info: https://fortin.ca/en/support/002b02034069/  (unless an unsuccessful attempt shows up after this post. It looks good atm)  

 

-- Turn off all options except for A3. I usually say the opposite, but in this case, since all the bypass does is transponder, I would them off. All other options on the bypass are not applicable to this install. When the unit is powered like in the step 2 mentionned , you may have noticed the unit flashing all three leds at the same time, about 20seconds. Doing this sets it up to ignore the bypass side completely. 

 

**Just to be sure it was done, you need to cut the yellow wire hanging out the back of the unit if your vehicle is automatic transmission.**

 

-- Test the brake input wire, Black wire, 20-pin connector A. Do this test while remote starting, make sure no power shows up as it will cancel the remote start. Most likely not the problem since you can remote start with the key in front, but it is worth a test.

 

Faint red flashing on unit

-- For the RED led flash, i will have to get back to you on this. Newer installs the led is typically on solid. This may also be an indicator of a grounding issue. 

 

-- You may need keysense. Must test first to see if it's a positive or negative trigger.. If you were to test this with the key in the barrel, wrap the transponder portion of the key in aluminum foil so that the car does not see it. 

 

-- If you were too need to enable the unlock before start feature. It will need to be done in the remote start settings, option 6.2. This is the option that controls those lock-unlock wires. If the vehicle has the oem alarm the arm-disarm connections would also be required along with this diagram:  http://image-d.wirecolor.com/vehiclegroupimage/6661.jpg Use the evo-one arm and disarm wires. The Arm wire on the EVO-ONE is the dark blue wire on the 20-pin once option 32.5 is enabled.

 

-- The 4flash is no tach detected. Normal in this case since it didnt even crank. 

 

-- unfortunate, but try lowering the firmware. I would even try the preflashed 4.18 (not sure DCryptor will work at this firmware, worth a try)

answered Dec 13, 2015 by Robb (255,340 points)

I have seen in the past that we sometimes need to actually interupt the vehicles Tx wire on remote start. Easy test to do but requires cutting the vehicles Tx wire. With the unit already programmed. 

 

  1. Cut the vehicles Tx wire
  2. Make sure the EVO light blue wire is connected vehicle side
  3. Attempt remote start

 

If the above works, wire a relay to open the circuit on remote start only and send Tx car side.

Thank you very much for your help.

Would this test be the same as unplugging the transponder ring connector from the ignition barrel? I attempted this to the same result, no start. I also disable all bypass options except 1,2,3 (lock, trunk, bypass) again to no start.

The wires on the barrel are Tx, Rx, Gnd and Ign. The Ign input on the remote start is wired to the ignition output on the remote start (A1 to E5), and the key held next to the transponder ring (but not in the barrel) starts the vehicle (without the clone bypass programmed). This seems to indicate the Tx and Rx at the transponder ring are independent of the key/keysense and the switch mechanism, just that when voltage is applied to the ring it gathers the transponder code.

As part of my thought that the transponder clone isn't working as expected, I was also wondering if there's alternative Ford 80-bit vehicle that I might try in the Flashlink Manager when I use Dcryptor. Perhaps a same-model-year Navigator? Or is that the wrong path to be chasing?

 

Edit: the automatic transmission loop is cut on the unit.
One additional note:

After programming the bypass, key outside of the vehicle, key next to the barrel and key in the barrel do not affect the startup attempt. Without the bypass, key next to, and key in allow starting. It seems to me the transponder ring is just a simple unit, and the EVO-ONE isn't correctly emulating the OEM transponder.

 

I realize now that I wired the lock and unlock outputs to the vehicle's lock and unlock signals. This will leave the OEM alarm disarm to the key useage in the barrel. Again however, I don't see how these functions all work flawlessly with the key transponder held near the barrel and the bypass disabled, yet enabling the bypass causes it to cease working.
Update on the attempts:

The brake wire showed 0.00V key off, 0.02V on remote start. I removed wire A11 (black) and jumpered to a factory ground.

Flashed firmware 4.18, reset bypass and re-coded using Dcryptor.

Set as Lincoln Navigator, reset bypass, and re-encoded using Dcryptor.

Wrapped key in foil. No key start- Unplugged the transponder ring and attempted remote start.

So far, to no avail.

I would suggest trying that interupt on the Tx.

 

master reset, update latest firmware, programm, dcrypt, plug back in car, snip the Tx but make sure evo wire is on car side of that cut. If this gets it going, you will need to wire up a relay that interupts the circuit on remote start. 

 

Unplugging the connector completely, I can guarantee, would not allow bypass. The Rx needs to communicate with the PATS module. The PATs module is where the transponder connector is connected.. The Tx, being an output of that PATs module, may not like seeing the Tx signal coming from the EVO when remote starting. Interupting the ciruit on remote starter would fix that issue. 

 

As you mentionned, selecting a different vehicle can sometimes do the trick. You can choose any vehicle from guide 3318 that is connection 1 and has programming 6 as available. 

 

The wires for arm-disarm have nothing to do with transponder for this year vehicle. I was only mentionning them since you had asked if they were needed in the original question.

 

need too know something. Is the Red/Yellow wire at the transponder connector switched ignition or constant power?

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