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2010 Ford F150 Evo One (Ax One) and AX RF2. Will not shut down upon pressing remote start button.

+1 vote
I just installed a AX-One (Evo-One) standalone remote starter on a 2010 Ford F-150, with a Axxess/Fortin AX-RF2 2-way RF kit.  I noticed a quirk with the RF2 remote.  Lock and Unlock work fine, and so does the [I] button for remote starting the truck.  However, if I want to shut the truck down, the remote start button [I] on the RF2 remote will not shut the truck down.  I tried the [-] button, thinking that maybe this was a 'stop' button, but the parking lights would flash once and nothing else would happen.  Hitting the brake pedal makes the engine shut down.  Also, 3x remote start with the OEM remote works for starting the engine, as well as shutting it down.

Also, the remote start module is set up to beep the horn on the 2nd press of the lock or unlock button.  Occasionally it will beep the horn on the first press of the lock button on the RF2 remote.  Another quirk, or did I misconfigure a setting somewhere?

For what it's worth, I used 1-key programming when setting up the bypass module.  Everything went smoothly with the install, aside from the quirks mentioned above.  I currently have the module set for remote start only, no alarm.

Any ideas?   Thanks in advance for your help!

The service number for from the Flash Link Manager is 002B02025422, if you need to see the settings for the bypass side.

-Darren
asked Nov 26, 2015 in Ford by Darren Asuncion (920 points)
edited Nov 26, 2015 by Darren Asuncion

1 Answer

+2 votes
 
Best answer
To stop you need to first press once on the -, and after you press the start button. Holding the start while the engine is running will reset runtime timer to 0.

For the horn, do you sometimes use the factory remote and sometime use the AXONE remote ?
answered Nov 26, 2015 by Mathieu Bertrand Colin (85,070 points)
selected Nov 27, 2015 by Darren Asuncion
Thank you for the super fast response!  Your suggestion worked just fine.  Does the [-] button do anything else on the 2010 F-150?

As for the horn - yes I use both remotes.  I used the OEM remote to shut down the truck (3x lock) because I didn't know how to shut down with the RF2 remote.  I'll see what happens if I only use the RF2 remote.

One last question for now - I noticed when setting up the bypass, that there was an option (A4) for automatic activation of the rear defroster/heated seats.  Is this really something that works on the 2010 F150 (I have rear defrost/heated mirrors), or is this option a generic option for specific vehicles?  I didn't see this listed as a feature in the vehicle guide for the AXONE, so I was just curious.

Thank you so much for your help.  I really appreciate it!

-Darren
The (-) button preps the remote to send aux commands or that stop command. Page 4 of the user guide that should of been with the RF64-2w has the functions of the remotes. Let me know if you have not received it ( support@ifar.ca ). There's some pretty nice features that come with the 2-way remote, like current vehicle status and also disabling or enabling all the buttons on the remote.

 
Option A4 is will unfortunately do nothing on this vehicle since we cannot control any of those features through data :(   It's generic for some vehicles that support those features. There's no filter on the options menu, so all options will show up for any vehicle.
 

For the Horn, I literally just finished a 2009 Escape (which is why i am hijacking this post :D, I work with Mathieu anyway, he won't mind), and the horn was honking on the first lock press when a door is open. This is the OEM keyless system warning the owner that a door is open.

On a side note. If you want, you can enable option 38.5 instead of 38.2. This will cancel 3xlock and make it lock-unlock-lock instead; preventing the horn from honking on the second lock press.
I did not receive the user guide for the RF64-2W.  I looked at the Fortin website just now and could only find the guide in French.  I will email you soon for a copy of the guide.

Thanks for letting me know about option A4.  Is there a way to hardwire for Aux 1 or Aux 2?  I was thinking of maybe hooking up the rear defrost if I could find a negative trigger wire on the factory dashboard switch.

As for the horn honking - it seems to happen randomly (on first press of lock button on 2-way remote), at least in the sense that I can't figure out a specific condition that would make it happen every time.  I have not had it happen since I stopped using the factory remote, though.

I will enable option 38.5 to eliminate the horn beep when remote starting with the OEM remote.  Thanks for that tip.

Again, thank you so much for your quick responses to my questions.  I really appreciate it!
Saw your email, i will respond to it with the english version of the user guide once it is re-uploaded. The database trolls seem to have missplaced it or accidentally deleted it. The french version is also outdated from what i can see. (this will go to Monday)

 

For the Auxilliary output; when needing analog outputs, you will have to use the Yellow/Black wire from the 20-pin connector to trigger the rear defrost. Option 25 will control how that output reacts (you will need to choose one of the 6 options depending on how the original defrost switch works), and Option 39 would allow it to also automatically trigger the AUX when the temperature is below -5 Celcius.

NOTE1: by default the yellow/black is a trunk release output but you do not need it on this car. As soon as you enable and setting within Option 25, that output becomes the AUX output.

NOTE2: The trigger wire for the rear defrost is White/Orange in the harness running along the driver side kick panel (negative trigger). I personally haven't touched rear defrost on this vehicle in a while and i think that this is the actual signal that goes straight to the rear defrost. The output on the EVO is rated at 750 mA so it may not be enough to power the circuit on it's own; a relay may be required to supply direct ground. (not using a relay if the circuit requires more than 750mA would damage the unit).

 

The Horn. I think your Green/White and Green/Red wires that go to the driver door trigger may be reversed. Disconnect the 20-pin connector of the EVO-ONE and test the Green/Red wire. This needs to be on the "BCM side" of the cut door trigger wire so it will test as 12 Vdc. The Green/White should have nothing on it.
Got your email.  The user manual is full of useful information!  Much appreciate it!

I verified with my meter that the Green/White and Green/Red wires were connected to the correct wires.  As a side note, the horn quit honking with the 1st press after I stopped using the OEM remote.  I can replicate the honking if I start the truck with the 2-way remote, shut down with OEM remote (3x lock), then hit the lock button on the 2-way remote.  I think the BCM is thinking that the lock command sent by the 2-way remote is the 2nd press of the lock button, and thus, beeping the horn as confirmation.  I think I came across this by accident when I was trying to figure out how to shut the truck down w/ the 2-way remote.  I've since put away my OEM remotes, since the 2-way provides so much more range and built-in confirmation.  Problem solved.  :)

Thanks for the information regarding the AUX outputs.  I found the white/orange wire in the kick panel harness, but need to check whether this is merely a switching signal, or the full signal going to the rear defroster.  I'll check on this at a later date when I've got extra time and energy.

Again, thank you for all your help and information!  You guys rock!

-Darren

I think the BCM is thinking that the lock command sent by the 2-way remote is the 2nd press of the lock button, and thus, beeping the horn as confirmation.

Exactly what is happening. If you were to press lock on your 2-way now, then press again in 6 hours, it would do the same thing. (don't tell anyone, but I just realised this when i did my own car last weekend). 

 

The white/orange for the rear defrost is the (-) trigger for the defrost relay. The output of the evo-one is rated at 750mA. The vehicle diagram says there are 4 relays that will get triggered, so I suggest adding a relay to give it straight ground instead. If you cut that white/orange and stick the leads of meter on either end and set it to Amps, it will give you exactly how much current will get pulled from there. The factory fuse that triggers those relays is 10 Amps so it's possible you can see up to 10 Amps (i doubt it), so make sure your meter can handle it. 

 

Again, thank you for all your help and information!  You guys rock!

Anytime!

 

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