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Wiring diagram question 2014 Toyota Tacoma

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I've installed 4 or 5 of these evo-ones in multiple vehicles with a t-harnes. However I have a quick question on this 2014 Toyota Tacoma 4cyl w/ t-harness. I just want to make sure I'm reading the diagram correctly before I start.  Guide#19621.


On the IMI wire... when the wire is cut at the white ecm plug. Do both of the following wires go to the ecm side of the plug?

white/red D6 to the cut blue/white wire on Ecm plug side

lt blue A20 to the same blue/white on Ecm plug side

white/green D4 to the other cut end of the blue/white wire?


Then just splice the IMO wire..

lt blue/black A10 to green/black at ecm plug


asked Jun 12, 2017 in Toyota by Lastminuteracin (650 points)

2 Answers

+1 vote
Best answer
You got it!!

Twist them generously togheter and don't use solder...

Just twist and tape.
answered Jun 12, 2017 by Charles Beauchamp (8,800 points)
selected Jun 12, 2017 by Lastminuteracin
Any reason not to solder them?? one more question... it also doesnt say to cut the loop for auto transmission on this diagram>>> Is that correct? I see on the other diagram without the t-harness it does say to cut it.Oh, and thank you for the clarification.
+1 vote
Solder can create noise/resistance in the line, So when dealing with data messages its usually just better to twist them together.

On a autmatic transmission vehicle you cut the yellow loop.
answered Jun 12, 2017 by Derek (150,580 points)
I'll have to ask my buddy if it has a security light. I don't have the truck at the moment. I'm sure it has an imobilizer. I just don't understand why I can't find a diagram to match the truck. Makes absolutely no sense. I know I'm on the Ecm and the correct connector according to all the diagrams. I'm going to try the regular wiring next time I have the truck.  Probably should have went that route anyway
there are 2 modules in back of the goves box with a series of about 4 or 5 connectors on each.

- you want the module that is furthest to the right.

- the black connector is the 2nd from the bottom.


You can always try the other method with IMMO Data and CAN-HI, CAN-LO at the OBD2.

It's real easy. Connect the t-harness, connect the 3 connections at the OBD2, and try programming the module. Ignore all other connections for now.   https://cdn.fortin.ca/download/65191/evo-one_ig_reg_bi_toy-tacoma_gkey_2010-2015_a_65191.pdf
Yeah, I know where it's supposed to be located lol. I'll add a picture too when I get the truck again. I'm gonna try what you said. Thank you again. I'll be sure to update this when I have the chance to install it again
Truck does not have an immobilizer. Wrapped the key in multiple layers of foil and it still starts. The immobilizer light does not illuminate either when locked. Also in the toyota owners booklet it shows that the shape of the key we have the vehicle will not have an immobilizer. So i wonder if i can just hook up the CAN wires and program it on  the blue led..Since theres no immoblizer it will not program the way the guide says cause theres no imobilizer to get data from. Or should i just order something else??

Well that explains a lot!

You can program only can-bus but it's honestly not worth it as the only thing covered would be Tach detection.


Without requiring any programming (no CAN-Bus, no Immobilizer),

-- connect all wires except for the IMI-IMO and the CAN-BUS wires. (The Tharness, and brake input are the minimums)

-- Plug in the EVO without holding down any button. The three leds will flash simaltaneously for about 20 seconds.

-- Done. You can now program the RF-KIT.


If you really want to program the unit with only CAN-BUS, the programming is little different than what is said in the guide.

  1. Press and hold the programming button while inserting the 6-pin main harness.
  2. Release the button when the LED cycles to the BLUE LED
  3. Plug in remaining connectors.
  4. Turn ignition On.
  5. Blue LED will flash
  6. Turn ignition OFF
  7. done.

In both cases make sure to enable option 2.4 in the remote starter settings.

Option 20.2-Tachless will also be needed if not bothering with the CAN-BUs connections.